In nearly all French cities there are open air markets where you can buy anything from fresh produce, to cheese, to small cakes, to table linens, to shoes. The markets in Aix however are especially fabulous. We took a tour (led by an American woman) of the markets – during which she gave us some historical facts, many samples, and a few insider’s tips. We sampled many artisanal foods (the south of France is very big on food cultivation as a profession – for instance you can be a professional/artisanal cheese maker – my new ideal job by the way). Our first sample was madeleines (small cakes, similar to pound cake, created for the daughter of Louis XV) made by a professionally trained baker. They were absolutely divine. Then we had olives (which I thought I didn’t like, but turns out I do!), saucissons (which are similar to sliced cold cuts), and goat cheese (chèvre - my favorite!!!!!!!!). We sampled two types of chèvre – a 1 day old and a 20 day old. I much preferred the 20 day old. It had a brie like skin or outer layer and then goat cheese in the middle (similar, but much superior to what we have in the US). Our guide also talked about champignons (mushrooms). Apparently every pharmacist in France must be able to tell you if your mushroom is poisonous or not. Some mushrooms have crazy names like “sheep’s foot” or “trumpet of death”!
Our tour guide also gave us Calissons (the famous Aixoise candy) and she described the history. The candies date back to the 1400s and were created in honor of Roi (king) Rene’s second marriage. He was 45, she was 22 – classic Medieval love story. Apparently the candies were the only things that made the poor bride smile! Even their composition is historically important. The top white icing symbolizes the purity of the bride, and the wafer on the bottom symbolizes the Catholic traditions. The name for the candy comes from Old Southern French – Langue d’Oc. The candies are so important to Aix that every Christmas there is a blind tasting competition of the seven candy makers to see which is the best.
Today’s tour was without a doubt one of my favorite things so far about Aix. It combined my love of food with my love of history (picture me scribbling notes – 2 pages, thank you very much, - between bites of fresh chèvre ! I can’t wait to buy tons tons tons of fresh produce, cheese, and other Aixoise goodies aux marchés en plein air !!
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| Aixoise Spices |
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| Aixoise tomatoes - have you ever seen more delicious looking ones?!?! |
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| Me at the cheese stall - I feel like Dennis (the guy in blue) and I are going to be good friends this semester! |
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