AixPatriots: Our Semester in Aix en Provence: Paris in October

This past weekend Sara, Ellen (a vandy friend), and I went to Paris. It was sensational, comme d'hab (french slang for as usual). We stayed at the hostel I was in two weeks ago. It's fun to stay at the same hostel because then you feel like you're coming home (almost...) and you get to know the area really well.

It may seem strange to some (unbelievers, if you will) to go back to Paris when I have all of Europe as my oyster, but for the questioning let me explain. Paris is one of those places that always surprises you. You can go several times and do different things every and still never run out of things to do. But at the same time you can always go back to your favorite places (parks, museums, restaurants, neighborhoods) and feel comfortable, because you've been there before. I usually like to avoid quotes but I feel like this one is quite appropriate:

"America is my country, but Paris is my hometown" Gertrude Stein.

So there - good old Gert said it better than I ever could have.

Here are some highlights:

Pere Lachaise Cemetery - The first place we went upon arriving. This is a very famous French cemetery. Lots of famous people are buried here, such as: Oscar Wilde, Jim Morrison (lead singer for the Doors), Chopin, Balzac, Edith Piaf... One of the best parts of the cemetery is that it is a wonderful place to flâne (walk around aimlessly, see other Paris blog post). It has so many beautiful mausoleums and tombs, some of which are hundreds of years old (and covered in moss). It's a bit morbid, but all in all a really beautiful place to wander around. We did so much wandering in fact, that we were in there after it closed and so a policeman had to pick us up in his car and drive us to the exit (thanks heavens it wasn't a The Mixed-up Files of Mrs. Basil E. Frankweiler situation in which we were stuck there over night - yikes!).

Italian Dinner: We had a wonderful Italian dinner our first night. We found a tiny Italian restaurant in our neighborhood. When we got there, there were no other customers (that didn't change until about one and a half hours into our meal) but we decided to eat there anyway. The place was actually delicious - we had a very long and delightful meal.

Marché aux Puces - The Paris flea market. Saturday we woke up and walked to the Paris Flea Markets. Luckily we were close - so the walk wasn't that bad. We walked through some shady areas of Paris though - think lots of people with merchandise (possibly stolen?) set out on blankets for sale. We decided to speak French through this area just to be safe. Eventually we arrive at the Flea Markets - which are HUGE!!!! There are several different sections, but they all essentially sell the same items (clothes, furniture, house decor, postcards, accessories...) but for a range of prices. For a bit we wandered through the very expensive section (there were literally red carpets on the ground) and we felt very out of place. But we also found some really amazing places with some of the coolest things. Sara found some bird cages she really likes, there were awesome vintage clothes, and cool knick-knacks. We bought Christmas presents and a few little things for ourselves. It was a really fun way to spend a morning. Again, lots of flâning involved but that was one of the most enjoyable parts - just experiencing/seeing Paris (parts you would never normally see).

Tour of the Left Bank/Latin Quarter - This is one thing you ABSOLUTELY HAVE TO DO if you ever go to Paris. There is this group - Discover Walks - that does about 7 different tours daily. We decided to do the Left Bank on (the left side of the Seine River). We met our tour guide (Marie, the french recent grad) at Notre Dame and went off to our tour. We started at the oldest church in Paris - St Julien Le Pauvre. She gave us the whole historical origin of the church and it's namesake, which I LOVED. I was taking notes and photos the whole time - it was a history lover's dream. Marie told us tons of cool facts about the Latin Quarter: why there are so many more medieval buildings here than other places in Paris (the architect who designed most of Paris - Haussman - was fired before he could touch the left bank), that Dante Aligheri studied here (!!!!!!!), and tons of other super cool facts. Marie was wonderful because she knew the area so well, she lived there and used to study there (the Sorbonne, the 1st university IN THE WORLD, and easily the most famous current French university, is located in the left bank).

Shakespeare and Co - After the tour we darted over to Shakespeare and Co before dinner. It is located in the left bank (traditionally the most academic, artsy, independent part of Paris). Marie told us on the tour that you can actually apply to live here for free!! You have to be a writer, you have to work in the shop while you live above it, and you have to read one book a day. For real! But you can stay there and write for free for 2-3 months. Incidentally the beat writers (Kerouac, among others) did it, and Hemingway was a frequent guest during his ex-pat days. So Shakespeare and Co. really might be the coolest place ever. We went inside and did some shopping. Sara and I wandered upstairs into a room where a guy was playing the piano. We he finished his song he asked if we had suggestions. Someone mentioned the theme from Amelie (a famous french movie) and he asked for the tune - so I hummed it. Sadly he didn't recognize it. Then Sara mentioned "Ain't no sunshine when she's gone" and he played it. After a minute or so he started singing and Sara joined in. It was really super cool. Then Sara bought a really fantastic book of poetry, Ellen bought a funny new fiction book, and I bought a postcard (I bought a book last time, and I'll probably buy one when we are in Paris with the group in November).

Dinner: We went to a place Marie recommended in the Left Bank. It was delicious!! We all had quiche with Rosé (which was actually a bit strong this time). For dessert I had a pear and chocolate tart and Elle and Sara each had warm chocolate cake. It was one of the best meals I have had in France so far.

This trip to Paris was so much fun. Unlike my trip two weeks ago, this one wasn't as scheduled. We had more time at each place to wander around (flâning!!!!!) and to talk. Also the tour was wonderful. It showed me a part of Paris I had never seen before but of course, now, I love it. I also found some new favorite places that I will have to visit next time.