About Us:
- Maggie Howell, Sara Adam, Emily Gall
- We are a group of Duke juniors who will be spending the fall semester in a small town in France called Aix En Provence. During our time in Aix, we hope to travel around France and Europe VERY often, become fluent in French, and join a french hiking club - among other adventures. We also want to keep in touch with you (our dear loved ones)! So we hope you enjoy our blog.
Monday, November 28, 2011
Wednesday, November 23, 2011
Overheard in the berge
"My computer is kind of crappy..." - Sara Adam
"What if our candy canes are broken?" - Maggie Howell
"Oh, then we won't leave the house." - Emily Gall
"What if our candy canes are broken?" - Maggie Howell
"Oh, then we won't leave the house." - Emily Gall
Tuesday, November 22, 2011
When in Spain, pretend you are fluent in Spanish
Last weekend Sara, Emily, Laura (a vandy friend), and I went to Madrid en España! It was easily the most enjoyable weekend I have had so far. I really loved Madrid. The city was quite pretty (unlike many other European cities that are in a troubling state of disrepair - read scaffolding everywhere). It had some very nice architecture - I would class in traditional. Also many of the buildings had ornate but not overly so friezes.
We arrived very late Friday night so we just took the metro to our hostel and collapsed into bed. Fun fact #: Spanish people love to fête (party) on the metro! Meaning that they have to-go cups of alcoholic drinks that they enjoy in transit whilst singing. It was hilarious!!
The next morning we grabbed a quick (free) breakfast at our hostel - we were late so they only had donuts left. Then we dashed off to meet Karen and Katherine, two Duke friends who are studying in Madrid this semester. Our first stop was their favorite chocolatería to get the oh-so-popular churros con chocolate (fried dough with chocolate sauce, which can be eater with the churros, or by itself). I was so excited about this that I had even dreamed about it the night before. It was a stupendous way to start our day!
After that we walked around, seeing the palace (though there is a royal family, the Spanish are not as obsessed about their royals as the English are with Elizabeth II and her crew), a park that offered a wonderful panoramic view of the city, and several plazas (del Sol, Mayor...). We also went to the Marcado de San Miguel - an indoor food market with tons of stalls. We saw tons of sides of pork - Spanish people get the ham freshly cut. Also one stall had some dried fish thing hanging. It was all spread out so it resembled some sort of bat creature. Spooky! ¡Muy extraño! (super bizarre) Eventually we stopped for lunch. I had paella for my started and it was divine!! They gave me a huge slice of lemon so I was able to make my meal as citrusy as I wanted (very). My second course was less pleasing and more sickening. I had calamari (squid) that was drenched in olive oil and paprika - not my fave. But I also had a nice sangria with my meal - my first one and I was wonderful. After lunch, we saw some more landmarks (Katherine and Karen were excellent tour guides). We went my a wonderful park (my second favorite in all of Europe - Jardin de Luxembourg in Paris is the best). We saw some Spanish wildlife - los gatos (cats)! After that we went to the Prado Museum. In the Prado you will find Fra Angelico's Annunciation, Goya's The Third of May, and many many other paintings from Rubens, El Greco, and Velázquez. I really enjoyed the medieval art section (comme d'hab). There were some very cool old (early medieval) wooden altar panels.
After the Prado we all broke up for naps (this was around 7pm). Around 9:30pm (!!) we all met up for dinner at this amazing tapas place called El Tigre. It was packed, so much so that to move around you had to pretend you had no bones and squeeze through tons of people. But it was incroyable (unbelievable)!!! They brought us tapas with our drinks - we all ordered Sangria again. Fun fact #2: all food in Spain is fried (this is either great or disastrous for your stomach). With our Sangrais we got wings (yuck! no thanks), bread and cheese (delicious in every country) and croquettas (fried balls of cheese - thus delicious) all for the low low price of 5 euros. While there (for several hours) we caught up with Karen and Katherine and met up with some other Duke-in-Spain people. After tapas (a highlight of the trip) we took the metro to a dance club. Fun fact #3: the metro closes at 1:45am. Though it was not that late, the metro was half closed - meaning that the trains still ran but all the escalators were stopped. To exit the metro we had to walk up six very long flights of stairs. Eventually we got to the club and danced for a few hours. The music was a mix of Spanish and American top 40 - I preferred the American songs (I knew all the words) but it was really great to hear Spanish music too. We got back to the hostel and our blessed beds around 4am (!!!!!). It was a feat indeed!!!
The next morning, Sunday, we grabbed a not-so-good breakfast (the Spanish version of pain au chocolat is far inferior to the French version) and headed off the Reina Sofia museum for a spot of art before heading back to Aix. The Reina Sofia houses modern art - so I was quite skeptical at first. But I ended up really enjoying it. We saw Picasso's Guernica, which was magnificent up close. It is a very large painting in person. Also, even though Picasso's figures are so abstract and simple, he communicates the pain and horror of the scene very well. We also saw some Dali and a colorful portrait of Tristan Tsara (the founder of the Dada movement). I really enjoyed the museum. Emily explained Picasso's theory of art, which I found quite helpful for appreciating art (especially modern art). Here is how she explains Picasso's theory on her blog:
"He states that he does not believe in art criticism, and his argument is that art is by nature the realm that is not burdened by rules (so one cannot impose rules on what one regards), and that the viewer cannot know the soul or the aims fo the artist, and that, since every artists is seeking truth, one cannot discount another's work; one must say, "This pleases me" or, "This pleases me not.""
Typical Emily - just being super smart and somehow making me smarter along the way. ut I think that for the most part, the art I saw this weekend pleased me. The trip was indeed a grand success! Katherine and Karen were wonderful hosts and tour guides.
It was a bit strange being in a place when I had no idea how to communicate. Luckily, Sara, Katherine, and Karen are all fluent in Spanish so they did all the talking. But whenever I was called upon to speak, whenever I bought something in a store, I kept spitting out French! I said "merci" instead of "gracias" and "oui" instead of "si". I was quite flustered. But I did manage to pick up a of Spanish here and there. So you might say I am trilingual at this point.
Quote of the weekend:
After a disastrous lunch "Ugh. Spain: 1, Emily: 0." - Emily Gall
We arrived very late Friday night so we just took the metro to our hostel and collapsed into bed. Fun fact #: Spanish people love to fête (party) on the metro! Meaning that they have to-go cups of alcoholic drinks that they enjoy in transit whilst singing. It was hilarious!!
The next morning we grabbed a quick (free) breakfast at our hostel - we were late so they only had donuts left. Then we dashed off to meet Karen and Katherine, two Duke friends who are studying in Madrid this semester. Our first stop was their favorite chocolatería to get the oh-so-popular churros con chocolate (fried dough with chocolate sauce, which can be eater with the churros, or by itself). I was so excited about this that I had even dreamed about it the night before. It was a stupendous way to start our day!
After that we walked around, seeing the palace (though there is a royal family, the Spanish are not as obsessed about their royals as the English are with Elizabeth II and her crew), a park that offered a wonderful panoramic view of the city, and several plazas (del Sol, Mayor...). We also went to the Marcado de San Miguel - an indoor food market with tons of stalls. We saw tons of sides of pork - Spanish people get the ham freshly cut. Also one stall had some dried fish thing hanging. It was all spread out so it resembled some sort of bat creature. Spooky! ¡Muy extraño! (super bizarre) Eventually we stopped for lunch. I had paella for my started and it was divine!! They gave me a huge slice of lemon so I was able to make my meal as citrusy as I wanted (very). My second course was less pleasing and more sickening. I had calamari (squid) that was drenched in olive oil and paprika - not my fave. But I also had a nice sangria with my meal - my first one and I was wonderful. After lunch, we saw some more landmarks (Katherine and Karen were excellent tour guides). We went my a wonderful park (my second favorite in all of Europe - Jardin de Luxembourg in Paris is the best). We saw some Spanish wildlife - los gatos (cats)! After that we went to the Prado Museum. In the Prado you will find Fra Angelico's Annunciation, Goya's The Third of May, and many many other paintings from Rubens, El Greco, and Velázquez. I really enjoyed the medieval art section (comme d'hab). There were some very cool old (early medieval) wooden altar panels.
![]() |
| Fra Angelico's Annunciation (1426) |
![]() |
| Goya's The Third of May (1808) - depicts Spanish Army's resistance to Napoleonic forces |
The next morning, Sunday, we grabbed a not-so-good breakfast (the Spanish version of pain au chocolat is far inferior to the French version) and headed off the Reina Sofia museum for a spot of art before heading back to Aix. The Reina Sofia houses modern art - so I was quite skeptical at first. But I ended up really enjoying it. We saw Picasso's Guernica, which was magnificent up close. It is a very large painting in person. Also, even though Picasso's figures are so abstract and simple, he communicates the pain and horror of the scene very well. We also saw some Dali and a colorful portrait of Tristan Tsara (the founder of the Dada movement). I really enjoyed the museum. Emily explained Picasso's theory of art, which I found quite helpful for appreciating art (especially modern art). Here is how she explains Picasso's theory on her blog:
"He states that he does not believe in art criticism, and his argument is that art is by nature the realm that is not burdened by rules (so one cannot impose rules on what one regards), and that the viewer cannot know the soul or the aims fo the artist, and that, since every artists is seeking truth, one cannot discount another's work; one must say, "This pleases me" or, "This pleases me not.""
Typical Emily - just being super smart and somehow making me smarter along the way. ut I think that for the most part, the art I saw this weekend pleased me. The trip was indeed a grand success! Katherine and Karen were wonderful hosts and tour guides.
It was a bit strange being in a place when I had no idea how to communicate. Luckily, Sara, Katherine, and Karen are all fluent in Spanish so they did all the talking. But whenever I was called upon to speak, whenever I bought something in a store, I kept spitting out French! I said "merci" instead of "gracias" and "oui" instead of "si". I was quite flustered. But I did manage to pick up a of Spanish here and there. So you might say I am trilingual at this point.
Quote of the weekend:
After a disastrous lunch "Ugh. Spain: 1, Emily: 0." - Emily Gall
| Sara, Karen, Katherine: fun with churros con chocolate |
![]() |
| Mercado de San Miguel |
| weird dried bat fish |
| super cool street markers |
| Emily, Katherine, Karen, Sara, Maggie, Laura, and MADRID |
| Paella!!! muy delicioso |
| a successful lunch |
| park times! |
| anyone fancy a dip? |
| Laura, Katherine, Sara, Karen, and Maggie en route to the discoteca! |
Overheard in the berge
"Oh man. I just need to pin a thestral right now. I am in definite need of pinspiration." - Emily Gall
Friday, November 18, 2011
Wednesday, November 16, 2011
Oh look! A garbage puddle - typical Marseille...
Today Sara, Emily, and I went to Marseille with our Provence class.
Let me begin with a mini rant. I do not like Marseille - pas du tout! It is a very dirty and smelly place. The only redeeming factor is the Notre Dame de la Garde (see post 2 posts ago) - and it is up on a hill (city on a hill?). The rest of the city is very dirty - trash (and trash water aka stanky gross water with trash in it that you sometimes step in whilst in Marseille) is EVERYWHERE!!!! But worse is the graffiti. I understand that big cities have graffiti - but Marseille has far too much of it. Woof. Also there are gross smells everywhere (probably emanating from the million kabob stands).
Despite all of those perfectly valid complaints, today's trip was quite enjoyable. First we went to the Marseillaise museum, which celebrates France's (very bloody) national anthem. It was actually quite informative and enjoyable. I will have you know that the song (while written in Strasbourg) first became popular as a revolutionary anthem in Marseille in 1792. To spread its popularity (and the revolutionary cause) 600 members of the Marseille National Guard trekked roughly 800 km from Marseille to Paris singing the song to citizens as the went along - thus spreading the song. Pretty cool!
After that museum we dashed over to the Regards de Provence museum - they were having a special exhibition of landscapes, portraits, and still-lifes from the Fauvist school and the Post-Impressionist school (these may or may not be the same thing, they are at least quite similar). Think bright colors, big/visible strokes. Many of the landscapes were seascapes that featured some famous red rocks in Provence. I really enjoyed some of the pictures. Here were some of my favorites:
I really enjoyed a lot of the paintings. Some were too blurry (the brush strokes were too obvious). I absolutely loved the super vivid colors!!!
Let me begin with a mini rant. I do not like Marseille - pas du tout! It is a very dirty and smelly place. The only redeeming factor is the Notre Dame de la Garde (see post 2 posts ago) - and it is up on a hill (city on a hill?). The rest of the city is very dirty - trash (and trash water aka stanky gross water with trash in it that you sometimes step in whilst in Marseille) is EVERYWHERE!!!! But worse is the graffiti. I understand that big cities have graffiti - but Marseille has far too much of it. Woof. Also there are gross smells everywhere (probably emanating from the million kabob stands).
Despite all of those perfectly valid complaints, today's trip was quite enjoyable. First we went to the Marseillaise museum, which celebrates France's (very bloody) national anthem. It was actually quite informative and enjoyable. I will have you know that the song (while written in Strasbourg) first became popular as a revolutionary anthem in Marseille in 1792. To spread its popularity (and the revolutionary cause) 600 members of the Marseille National Guard trekked roughly 800 km from Marseille to Paris singing the song to citizens as the went along - thus spreading the song. Pretty cool!
After that museum we dashed over to the Regards de Provence museum - they were having a special exhibition of landscapes, portraits, and still-lifes from the Fauvist school and the Post-Impressionist school (these may or may not be the same thing, they are at least quite similar). Think bright colors, big/visible strokes. Many of the landscapes were seascapes that featured some famous red rocks in Provence. I really enjoyed some of the pictures. Here were some of my favorites:
![]() |
| MY FAVORITE!!! Louis Valtat: Groupe de marbre au milieu de fleurs |
![]() |
| An Avett Brother - Louis Valtat: self portrait |
![]() |
| Valtat: Les Roches Rouges a Agay |
![]() |
| Valtat: Bouquet de lilac a la potiche chinoise |
I really enjoyed a lot of the paintings. Some were too blurry (the brush strokes were too obvious). I absolutely loved the super vivid colors!!!
In Marseille we also saw a murmuration - when a flock of starlings gets together and flies around in amazing synchronisity making patterns. I also learned that a group of starlings is called a murmuration, a group of owls is a parliament, a group of ravens is an unkindness, and a group of crows is a murder.
So that's it for my fun facts for today - hope you enjoyed them!
One last thing! I refound this gem today - it turns all your letters into llamas!! And who doesn't love a message written in llamas (it's so superior to messages written in the stars...)
One last thing! I refound this gem today - it turns all your letters into llamas!! And who doesn't love a message written in llamas (it's so superior to messages written in the stars...)
Tuesday, November 15, 2011
More Delicious Food
The past two nights have been extraordinary as far as food goes - last night especially.
Last night, one of the Vanderbilt girls in our dinner group brought her mom and aunt to dinner - so naturally the woman we eat dinner with, Madame Betirac went all out. We usually have very good meals with her - she always includes a green salad, she makes delicious quiches, and occasionally (not nearly often enough) we have real dessert (instead of boring fruit salad or yogurt - hint these are NOT desserts, they do not signal the end of a meal to my tummy) such as Tarte Citron (lemon meringue pie) or mousse au chocolat. So all in all, I am generally quite satisfied with our dinners. But last night, in honor of the visitors, Mme Betirac outdid herself! We had beef tenderloin, haricot verts (french green beans - superior to american green beans), salad, polenta cubes with parmesan and lemon and MOUSSE AU CHOCOLAT!!! And to top it all off we had wine with dinner (we've never ever had wine with dinner before, on select occasions, such as birthdays, we have a bit of wine before dinner, but never with). We had red wine (I didn't have any - still don't like red wine) and 2 roses (one from Provence, drier, and one from Langue D'Oc region, which was sweeter). It was a wonderful meal - we ate like kings (or maybe even queens)!
After our scrumptious dinner, Sara made an apple cake with a cinnamon sugar glaze (Emily's handiwork) for Renaud's birthday. He was very very pleased. We gave him his cake and sang happy birthday (en francais of course).
Tonight was also a special dinner because Madame Betirac had a concert (she plays the harpsichord in a few groups) so Christophe made dinner. But even more exciting were the guests! Some of Christophe's biking friends were there (Christophe does BMX bikes - not motobiking like Renaud). I feel like most of the time they were laughing at us and commenting in very rapid french how ridiculous we were. Which was fair, we were a bit silly tonight. But it was a fun meal nonetheless.
Tomorrow we go to Marseille for a field trip. Hopefully we all survive (just kidding - people, mostly Christophe, joke about how dangerous Marseille is, but in reality it's just a big city)! Thursday I volunteer at the middle school again, but I think I get to explain Thanksgiving to the younger kids. That should be very fun - I love explaining American holidays to them.
Last night, one of the Vanderbilt girls in our dinner group brought her mom and aunt to dinner - so naturally the woman we eat dinner with, Madame Betirac went all out. We usually have very good meals with her - she always includes a green salad, she makes delicious quiches, and occasionally (not nearly often enough) we have real dessert (instead of boring fruit salad or yogurt - hint these are NOT desserts, they do not signal the end of a meal to my tummy) such as Tarte Citron (lemon meringue pie) or mousse au chocolat. So all in all, I am generally quite satisfied with our dinners. But last night, in honor of the visitors, Mme Betirac outdid herself! We had beef tenderloin, haricot verts (french green beans - superior to american green beans), salad, polenta cubes with parmesan and lemon and MOUSSE AU CHOCOLAT!!! And to top it all off we had wine with dinner (we've never ever had wine with dinner before, on select occasions, such as birthdays, we have a bit of wine before dinner, but never with). We had red wine (I didn't have any - still don't like red wine) and 2 roses (one from Provence, drier, and one from Langue D'Oc region, which was sweeter). It was a wonderful meal - we ate like kings (or maybe even queens)!
After our scrumptious dinner, Sara made an apple cake with a cinnamon sugar glaze (Emily's handiwork) for Renaud's birthday. He was very very pleased. We gave him his cake and sang happy birthday (en francais of course).
Tonight was also a special dinner because Madame Betirac had a concert (she plays the harpsichord in a few groups) so Christophe made dinner. But even more exciting were the guests! Some of Christophe's biking friends were there (Christophe does BMX bikes - not motobiking like Renaud). I feel like most of the time they were laughing at us and commenting in very rapid french how ridiculous we were. Which was fair, we were a bit silly tonight. But it was a fun meal nonetheless.
Tomorrow we go to Marseille for a field trip. Hopefully we all survive (just kidding - people, mostly Christophe, joke about how dangerous Marseille is, but in reality it's just a big city)! Thursday I volunteer at the middle school again, but I think I get to explain Thanksgiving to the younger kids. That should be very fun - I love explaining American holidays to them.
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